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The next afternoon we boarded the speed ferry from Langkawi to Georgetown, on Penang Island further south. Georgetown is Malaysia’s second largest city, a fast-moving place with a confusing amalgamation of its traditional Chinese heritage and smart brand new high rises dotted around the expensive colonial mansions. It was once the busiest sea port in the area and the first British settlement in the Malay peninsula. But the founding of Singapore in 1819 was the beginning of the end for Georgetown’s sea trade. Nowadays it is of little strategic significance, but a very interesting and prosperous town nevertheless. In the old quarters of the town the streets are lined with Chinese shop-houses with bright red Chinese lettering, three wheeled cycle rickshaws ferrying passengers around.

We checked into a nice Chinese hotel, and the next day hired a scooter and went exploring around the island. Our first stop was a butterfly farm – a tropical greenhouse with thousands of butterflies flying around inside, as well as a collection of scorpions, lizards, turtles, stick insects, and all manner of other creepy crawlies.

Our next stop was the Kek Lok Si Temple, perched on top of a hill near Georgetown, with spectacular views towards the city and the bay and the islands beyond. The temple is a sprawling fairytale complex with colourful roofs and towers. It is supposedly the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia, and construction is still ongoing to build it further.

We will always remember Georgetown with fond memories – not only because it is an amazing city full of diversity, all mod-cons as well as character and history. Only 10 minutes ride takes you to lush hills and jungle, undisturbed by man. More importantly, two of Nic’s biggest bugbears were resolved here – he found a lovely shiny red cycling bib in the local cycling shop (to replace his worn out old one full of holes) and he managed to get the problem with his ipod sorted out (we were using the wrong charger!!!!).

The next morning we took the car ferry across the straits to the mainland (to the city of Butterworth), cutting out the 13km shadeless bridge. Next destination: the mountains running down the middle of Malaysia (and then eventually, the East Coast).

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